The skincare world evolves fast, with new products constantly coming onto the market and new ‘wonder’ claims popping up everywhere – it can be hard to keep track. Everyone wants to look younger and so the industry is meeting this demand and constantly seeking to reach new heights.
What is the future of anti-ageing skincare? I spoke to Synergy Giffnock (advanced skincare and aesthetics clinic) owner Dr Judy Todd MB ChB, FRCA about what’s in store for us as consumers. Adding in their point of view is Dr Hadi Abushaira MBBCh, MMSc, MSc, MRCP, FRCP, MD, a consultant dermatologist and creator of the Vivderma skincare brand.
Do you think more people are interested in anti-ageing skincare now than they were 10 years ago? Why do you think this is?
JT: Yes, as it is more accessible. Prior to this it was more exclusive. Now, so many people are having treatments that it has almost become the norm. It’s as if, once all your peers are having cosmetic procedures or treatments done, you almost have to do it to keep up or risk looking much older than your years. Celebrities openly talking about it having things done make people aspire to it too.
HA: Yes, more people are interested in using anti-ageing skincare. Once reason is that there is more awareness about the presence of different kinds of skincare products from education and exposure to media and advertisements displaying the use of unique ingredients.
How has the science of anti-ageing progressed over the last decade?
JT: The main breakthrough is in skin tightening, energy-based treatments. This can be done with radio frequency (e.g. the Forma by Invasix treatment) or ultrasound energy (Ultherapy®). You stop making collagen as you age. The decline is from around 23 onwards, with skin becoming more lax - which translates into jowls into your late 30s and 40s. These treatments induce collagen formation by stimulating the fibroblasts (cells that make collagen) to produce. The result is that skin firms, texture improves and jowls lift. Jowls are a real troublesome area for women of this age group.
Also, there has been a lot of research over the years into the pattern of fat loss in the face by a Brazilian plastic surgeon. From that research, he has mapped exact points for placement of dermal filler - often just small volumes being required - to almost magically take years off.
HA: The science of anti-ageing skincare was, and is still, progressing rapidly for various reasons – 1) the development in the chemical scientific technology of discovering and extracting new ingredients, 2) the development in machinery with greater extracting, purifying and mixing capabilities and 3) more people are involved with the skincare industry that have great experience in chemistry and the physiology of the skin.
In the last year, what new research and innovations have been developed?
JT: In the last year there seems to have been an increased focus on aesthetics crossing into sexual health. The O-Shot® and P-Shot® have been gaining popularity as is vaginal tightening treatments with energy-based treatments such as lasers and radio frequency. There is very little solid scientific evidence for the efficacy of these treatments, so it remains to be seen where this will go.
Where do you see anti-ageing skincare going next? Do you have any predictions of things to look out for?
JT: Prevention with medical grade sunscreens and medical-grade skincare regimes to maintain skin health and reduce oxidative damage and stress, I believe, are the future. Prevention is always better than cure. Otherwise, non-surgical treatments will be on the increase. The trend and evolutionary pattern across the whole of medicine and surgery, not just cosmetic medicine, is towards the non- surgical and minimally invasive.
Scalpel-less facelifts with radio frequency (FaceTite and NeckTite) are a minimally invasive alternative to a surgical facelift. It carries far less risks, is cheaper and can look more natural - the ‘wind tunnel’ look of the 80s is not acceptable any more. That said, even surgical facelifts have changed. Many people will have fat transfers to replace lost facial volume in the course of the facelift, giving a much better result than our traditional view of what a facelift used to be like.
Do you think people will be able to do a lot more for their skin at home in the future, instead of attending clinics for the likes of Botox and fillers?
JT: The things that people can do for their skin at home is not to smoke, use a good sunscreen and use a medical-grade skincare regime like ZO. Doing all of these is great prevention, and even some reversal of sun damage and other oxidative damage can be achieved with retinols and other active ingredients.
Botox and fillers, administered in a safe environment by qualified, trained individuals can work wonders and make people feel great. That said, they are very limited in what they can achieve, and a decent anti- ageing regime requires a combination of lots of different therapies. It’s also just like going to the gym - you have to keep it up or you lose the results!
HA: Yes, I think people will use more skincare products, as more products that promise new benefits and target specific skincare needs become available in the market.
This is the area of beauty that I get most excited about as it's constantly becoming more accessible and more ground-breaking. We can only predict where anti-ageing skincare will go next, but you can be sure that it will definitely be exciting.
Main Image - fsHH via Pixabay