As men’s fashion weeks in London, Paris, Milan and New York have come to an end, let’s look back on the top collections from each city, as well as highlights from the Pitti Uomo trade show.
This show was one big raucous London party. Set up in an old gym hall, the theme was ‘circus’ and the rules were ‘there are no rules’. Menswear was mixed with womenswear here, creating a gender fluid, rebellious feeling.
The face-painted models walked – or rather danced, cartwheeled and hula hooped – down the runway to a live music performance, and at the end, Queen Viv herself stormed the crowd on a dancer’s shoulders, at the grand old age of 76, dressed head to toe in her new collection. But despite all the gimmicks, the actual clothing was delightful, from deconstructed white shirts and dresses scrawled sharpie-style with hearts, aces, spades, and diamonds, red, white and black bodysuits, and of course Westwood’s classic touches of punk including tartan, patchwork, ripped trousers and chunky black boots.
Set within a real-life 3D graphic novel, this comic book inspired show featured new silhouettes for Prada bound to become menswear wardrobe classics for years to come.
From modern simplicity in the form of fashion-forward boiler suits with rolled sleeves and popped collars and tailored coats paired with bold buckles, to statement styles including sci-fi stripes, comic strip prints and patent red brogues, Prada’s cohesive new collection previewed in a dystopian atmosphere was certainly the most exciting of Milan Fashion Week.
Every single look in the Rick Owens Paris offering set a new trend for men everywhere. Billowy oversized trousers met creased jackets with sheer sleeves, giant bum bags and cropped blazers paired with super high waisted slacks and origami inspired shirts.
The set design was breathtaking; models walked along scaffolding at dizzying heights, which cascaded from the coliseum-like Jardin du Palais-Royal into a bridge across a cool blue lake. Owens’ cool, calm and collected presentation was a refreshing break in the Paris heatwave; in fact, guests were even provided with chic, branded fans. Overall, it was a genuinely unique and disruptive collection that is bound to top the fashion headlines.
Deserving more than an honorable mention is certainly JDubz, who presented a refreshingly bright and cheerful show at Pitti Uomo.
From love hearts on leather jackets to retro sweater vests, denim shorts, Arran knits and duster coats, JW. Anderson’s S/S 18 collection is surprisingly wearable, but still with a colorful, graphic and celebratory twist.
With a wide range of references ranging from the graphic design of Peter Saville (most famous for the album art of New Order and Joy Division) to cult 80’s sci-fi flick Blade Runner, the Belgian designer’s New York debut was possibly the most instagrammable shows of the season.
Highlights included leather raincoats, asymmetrical layering, light-saber umbrellas, Chinese lanterns and punk prints, all bestsellers waiting to happen, men – and women – take note.