How Oxford shirts are made (it's more complicated than you think)

Behind one of our most beloved wardrobe staples lies an unimaginable degree of handcraft.

It takes over 50 people in over 50 steps to weave, wash, cut, sew, press and pack a single Oxford Button Down shirt at ASKET, the Swedish menswear label creating timeless essentials made to last and never go out of fashion. The brand does so with total supply chain and price strategy transparency (which is truly refreshing), explaining where, how, and why everything is made, so you can see exactly where your money is going.

Here are the 50 steps to create a 'simple' white shirt, in case you are wondering (or skip to the bottom to watch ASKET's beautifully cinematic video):

  1. Yarn is warehoused in Portugal

  2. Yarn is spun onto cones

  3. Yarn is spun once more

  4. Warp yarn is starched

  5. Weft thread is drawn through heddles

  6. Oxford fabric is woven

  7. Fabric is quality checked

  8. Fabric is brushed

  9. Fabric is washed

  10. Excess fibres are removed

  11. Fabric is once more quality checked

  12. Fabric is rolled up

  13. Fabric is wrapped and packaged

  14. Fabric is shipped to another Portugal factory

  15. Fabric is once again quality checked

  16. Shirt pattern is drawn

  17. Pattern is adjusted to size

  18. Pattern is adjusted for shrinkage

  19. Pattern is printed out

  20. Pattern is laid out on fabric

  21. Fabric is cut out into correct pieces

  22. Pattern pieces are layered

  23. Each piece is checked under UV light for impurities

  24. Each piece is secured in place

  25. Pieces are moved on to be assembled


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26.Shirt collar points are punched out

27.The collar is hand sewn

28.Shirt cuffs are hand sewn

29.Collar and cuffs are trimmed, marked and ready to attach

30.Labels are aligned and attached

31.Back box pleat is sewn in

32.Back piece and yoke are joined

33.Front two chest pieces are sewn to back

34.Right and left sleeves are attached

35.Shirt is closed from top to bottom

36.Button holes are marked by hand

37.Button holes are sewn and opened

38.Buttons are inspected for quality

39.Buttons are sewn in place

40.Front pocket is sewn on

41.Collar is sewn on

42.Everything is hemmed, secured and trimmed

43.Shirt is washed and pre-shrunk

44.Shirt is pressed/ironed

45.Shirt is measured and fitted

46.Shirt is quality controlled

47.Shirt is buttoned up and folded

48.Shirt is packaged and boxed

49.Shirt is shipped to Stockholm warehouse

50.Shirt is sold to customer!

The Oxford Shirt in 50 Steps from ASKET on Vimeo.

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Ruth MacGilp, 20, UK. Fashion Communication Student and Fashion Blogger.
Edinburgh Website