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  • How Oxford shirts are made (it's more complicated than you think)


    | The 50 Steps involved in making an oxford style shirt. Not so simple for a simple clothing piece.


    Behind one of our most beloved wardrobe staples lies an unimaginable degree of handcraft.

    It takes over 50 people in over 50 steps to weave, wash, cut, sew, press and pack a single Oxford Button Down shirt at ASKET, the Swedish menswear label creating timeless essentials made to last and never go out of fashion. The brand does so with total supply chain and price strategy transparency (which is truly refreshing), explaining where, how, and why everything is made, so you can see exactly where your money is going.

    Here are the 50 steps to create a 'simple' white shirt, in case you are wondering (or skip to the bottom to watch ASKET's beautifully cinematic video):

    1. Yarn is warehoused in Portugal

    2. Yarn is spun onto cones

    3. Yarn is spun once more

    4. Warp yarn is starched

    5. Weft thread is drawn through heddles

    6. Oxford fabric is woven

    7. Fabric is quality checked

    8. Fabric is brushed

    9. Fabric is washed

    10. Excess fibres are removed

    11. Fabric is once more quality checked

    12. Fabric is rolled up

    13. Fabric is wrapped and packaged

    14. Fabric is shipped to another Portugal factory

    15. Fabric is once again quality checked

    16. Shirt pattern is drawn

    17. Pattern is adjusted to size

    18. Pattern is adjusted for shrinkage

    19. Pattern is printed out

    20. Pattern is laid out on fabric

    21. Fabric is cut out into correct pieces

    22. Pattern pieces are layered

    23. Each piece is checked under UV light for impurities

    24. Each piece is secured in place

    25. Pieces are moved on to be assembled


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    26.Shirt collar points are punched out

    27.The collar is hand sewn

    28.Shirt cuffs are hand sewn

    29.Collar and cuffs are trimmed, marked and ready to attach

    30.Labels are aligned and attached

    31.Back box pleat is sewn in

    32.Back piece and yoke are joined

    33.Front two chest pieces are sewn to back

    34.Right and left sleeves are attached

    35.Shirt is closed from top to bottom

    36.Button holes are marked by hand

    37.Button holes are sewn and opened

    38.Buttons are inspected for quality

    39.Buttons are sewn in place

    40.Front pocket is sewn on

    41.Collar is sewn on

    42.Everything is hemmed, secured and trimmed

    43.Shirt is washed and pre-shrunk

    44.Shirt is pressed/ironed

    45.Shirt is measured and fitted

    46.Shirt is quality controlled

    47.Shirt is buttoned up and folded

    48.Shirt is packaged and boxed

    49.Shirt is shipped to Stockholm warehouse

    50.Shirt is sold to customer!

    The Oxford Shirt in 50 Steps from ASKET on Vimeo.


    Author image
    Ruth MacGilp is an award​-winning blogger and freelance writer with a focus on ethical and sustainable fashion.
    Edinburgh Website