| New York Fashion Week had a star pupil, and their initials were CK… Any ideas?
As I’m writing this, the fashion crowds in the Big Apple are pouring out of the latest Calvin Klein show at NYFW, arguably this season’s most awaited collection as it marks a year of Antwerp fashion hero Raf Simons at the helm of CK, and the industry has been feeling refelective on the future of this American fashion powerhouse
This presentation of CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC (Previously named Calvin Klein Collection; the label’s main RTW line) was a celebration of wild western vibesmixed with luxe urbanity, with a consistent motif of sportswear-inspired pull tabs and zips running throughout.
Highlights included a logo adorned quilt (next summers ‘hot’ accessory!?), silk cowboy shirts updated for 2018, and super-shiny vinyl rainjackets and hoods over plaid print structural suiting.
Random objects ranging from watering cans and axes to tasselled curtains and lavish textiles hung from the ceilings as models donned the runway holding supersize cheerleader pom poms (which later inspired future must-have bags and dresses) for the likes of Anna Wintour, Iris Apfel and Grace Coddington.
Colour and texture were key elements here; deep pinks, sultry reds, bold yellows and rich oranges entangled themselves in exagerated tassels, flowing, stiffleather and smooth satins. Surfaces contradicted eachother, like matte and wet-look, sheer and opaque, metallic and earthy; contrast was key for the Calvin Klein woman this season, while silhouettes were kept simple and elegant, with plenty of structured suits and feminine a-lines, with a little dose of cowboy chic. Overall, the collection was very America, very Calvin, and also, as always, unapolegetically Raf. Nothing too surprising or innovative, but exactly what the doctor ordered.
Want to delve deeper into Calvin Klein S/S 18? Click here to watch a live panel discussion about both the collection, and the question ‘What should American fashion look like today?’ on SHOWstudio, which goes live today at 11am!
Header image via Vogue Runway